The JASMA Stamp. What You Should Know


Some Details….

So, doing the usual rounds on pages, Ive come across a topic that no one really talks about, unless there are parts for sale, ( and there are Nerds around :P) But even then, not all the details are compiled in a way one can make sense of. So this post is here to help clear some things up!

Some of us may have owned, seen or heard about exhaust parts with a JASMA Stamp. Usually a badge welded on…

OK, So What Is JASMA?

JASMA is not a brand, although as a whole, anything seen with a JASMA stamp passes as JDM goodness, and straight away, alot of people dont care for the rest of the details, its JASMA, and its JDM… But there’s more to it than that.

Of my research so far, the majority of evidence supports that JASMA stands for Japan Automotive Sports Muffler Association. JASMA set rules and regulations on exhausts. It means the exhaust is made in Japan and meets JDM specific requirements.

Taken from the JASMA, official JDM AF website:

The Japan Auto Sports Muffler Association is managed to achieve the following objectives.

We will fully comprehend the roles and positions of cars in modern society, comply with the safety standards of road transport vehicles, and strive to disseminate sports mufflers that conform to standards such as noise, exhaust gas, heat hazards, etc. Also, with regard to non-standard mufflers dedicated to competition, we aim to educate and teach proper usage methods and appropriate sales plans according to limited objectives, carry out clear identification and accompanying wide public relations activities, We aim to contribute to the development of car society.

There are JASMA Stamps on parts for more than just MX5s and EF Civics. Subaru, GTR, Toyotas…. Pretty much anything from the JDM can get hold of these (not so ultra rare) Stamped parts. However, there is something quite special about each code on the stamp itself.

Which JDM Manufacturer?

From further research, the first three numbers of the stamp, are a code to denote which Manufacturer produced the part. The last series of numbers is the exhaust type/ model.
If your Japanese is good, you can even request the exact type through the JASMA number by contacting them at

I havent got as far as compiling a list of my own, (I imagine it would take some time to even get one going!) but have found a few extensive lists. Most have been copied and pasted from the EK9 forum without credit, but it is infact where this list originated from, thank you Sinbad :wink: )

Taken from the EK9 Forum, TY

Akiyure Inc. 047
Apekusera Inc. 048
Iida Inc. 130
Ikeda industry 003
A tea sea international Japan Inc. 074
Etching k s Inc. 051
Ebansupuranningu asuretsuku division 129
M-TEC Inc. 002
Otoekuze Inc. (autoexe) 120
Automatic backs seven Inc. 097
Ovuareshingupurodakutsu Inc. 124
Katsu Inc. 088
Car land 119
Kind technostructure Inc. (KTS) 115
Kakimotoreshingu Inc. 017
Garcon division 114
Can tile office 113
5ZIGEN international Inc. 005
Sun automobile industry Inc. 076
Gee earl Inc. 012
Jieiruto Inc. 013
Gee piece Potts Inc. 125
Jiyaosu Inc. 067
Starting line Inc. 069
Spoon Inc. 044
Possession the Suruga Seiki Inc. 106
Zero sports Inc. 100
Tanabe Inc. 026
Taniguchi Inc. 035
Takeoff Inc. 004
Top line Inc. 110
Trust Inc. 006
Knight sport Inc. 019
Huaburesu Inc. 111
Fujita engineering Inc. 061
Rattan šâ engineering and research industry Inc. (Fujitsubo Giken Co. Ltd.) 001
Free way Inc. 123
Buritsutsu Inc. 021
Hoshinoinparu Inc. 037
HONDA twin cam Inc. 011
Mainzuueibu Inc. 038
Makishimuwakusu Inc. 045
Pine Shaw Inc. 008
Meiwa Inc. 041
Yajima industry Inc. 091
Yamato Inc. 122
Lucky automatic Inc. 126
Love lark Inc. 083
Kaye etch. 051
Auto Produce Boss. 131

MX5… Which Rocker’s Which?

Not that you’d need to know, but incase you’d like to for extra scene points or whatevs…  But there are some fairly obvious difference between NA and NB cam covers.

Which is which? 

Fresh back from Chemical Strip, three of these covers fit the NB/ MK2 mx5 models. But how can you tell?

Firstly, the NA/ MK1 covers are simple to identify by the lack of crankshaft position sensor or CPS, found on the front, only on the NB onwards. Mounted on the nose of the crankshaft, it was introduced for the detection of misfire in the ODBII engines.

Telling the NA 1600 and 1800 covers apart from eachother is most noticable by the lettering… The NA6 has recessed letters whereas the NA8 has raised letters. (This is only The case with N.A. engines…. NB engines are ALL recessed.) The NA8 is also slightly longer.



The NB models however, arent that simple. On both the 1600 and the 1800 MK2 covers, the lettering is recessed. If you put them side by side, there are some notable differences to tell them apart…

NB6 vs NB8 

Firstly the most obvious difference here is the length. Just like the MK1 models, the 1600 is shorter than the 1800. You’ll also notice the difference in the positioning of some holes…

But the most obvious way to tell them apart – especially if you dont just cssually happen to have one to compare with – is the cut out on the back of the cover for the CAS. The NB6 is on the Inlet side on the left, and the NB8 is on the right for exhaust.

They will both have the sensor in the front in the same place.

So. Going back to the original pic… In order from left to right are….


So now you know. 

Bankruptcy Over Fenders, The Fastback & Fiberglassing.. Whats New

Because I love to learn new things and because I love to mess and get involved.. Yetidragon and I finally made some time for me to learn how to Fiberglass. If you’ve ever wanted or looked at the options for wider arches from your NA mx5 over the past few years, then you’re sure to have come across Yetidragon’s “Project Bankruptcy.”

Way back in summer, between day jobs, track days, a new project car, organising and hosting events, attending shows, festivals and more, we some how managed to get some time in production mode and made a full set of “Bankruptcy Fenders & Wings” just in time to bolt onto a car for RetroRides.

The first full set I made landed on the Combustionpunks’ Fastback for its debut show in Worcester in August this year (Updated post coming asap!) and are currently looking good just “bolted on”as the car stands unfinished and in daily use.

Set up stats:
Wheels – XXR 002
15×8 et-0
34mm hubcentric spacers rears
TMI… Nankang NS2R 195/50/15 Hard
Suspension – HKS

The rear Fenders have been shaped to suit the Fastback lines with a grinder.
Here’s some smoothed in, bonded, bolted, and painted variants.

Photo credits where due, owners are tagged, thanks for the support guys!

The Bankruptcy Fenders and Wings are currently on Sale in the Combustionpunks shop, as well as shiny stickers and neat merch ?

Yetidragon is working on MK2 prototypes at the minute, should see production early next year, as well as alternative MK1 wide arches… There is also the Fastback to to modify and produce. 2017, the year of fiber-glassing awesomeness…

Since the successful full set for the Fastback, I’ve made another set of rear over fenders, and now working on a front set of front wings. The wings are bit more technical in the fact they’re a 5 piece mold, with lips and tabs replicating the OEM wings for a direct, bolt on replacement, with a wider clearance area. (Currently tested up to et-35 on the rear and et-10 front.)  So more bends, curves, lips and edges as well as the additional prep work for extra parts. Since Yetidragon has done all the hard work in making the original prototypes and molds, I had it pretty easy, but its still a super long process. From start to finish, a front pair of Wings has taken me 8 hours. (Parts in the house and parts in the garage… Its cold work in December!)

After cleaning and waxing all of the mold pieces, they get bolted together and before the fiber-glassing, the wing gets Gel coated and left to set. (The white, smooth layer you see on the outside.) In this time I tend to have a coffee, instagram some pics, check my facebook and prep a work space. I’m a bit OCD when I work…. I find it useful to have an easy access bin nearby, like a box on the floor I can throw stuff at, liquids measured out in cups and catalyst measured ready to go, fresh brushes, pots, scissors and other tools to hand, PPE and gloves, as well as good lighting and enough room to fight 😉

I cut out pieces of fiberglass against some templates to make sure they’re an ideal fit for the mold, the right shape, and make relief cuts. It makes it quicker, easier, creates less waste and less mess when it comes to laying the fiberglass. I make sure I have off cuts to hand to strengthen particular areas like the fitting tabs and layer up edges for strength too.  Here’s a super quick time lapse of the first layer of fiberglass… I like to “fit” them to the mold before applying the first coat of resin..

After all of the meticulous planning, prep and once the gel coat has set, the fun part finally begins and the fiberglass gets laid.. Giggedy. Its a little fiddly, very sticky and uber messy, so patience is essential. It takes quite a while to make sure each layer is adequately covered in resin, with no bubbles, lifts or droops, making sure the mix isn’t setting too fast and you’re not working too slow. It also smells pretty bad… The Gel coat is definitely something you should do in the garage and not in your kitchen… Once optimal layers have been applied, the wing gets left to set, then sit and harden in the mold. When its finally ready to be popped out, its trimmed back with the grinder and edges smoothed off, ready for fitting.

I’m really lucky and eternally grateful to have learned this new skill, and its pretty damn awesome driving a car that you’ve made panels on… So a HUGE shout out to TopPunk Yetidragon for the patience and time invested in me, sharing his awesomeness and skill <3 More to come #STAYTUNED


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